Driving in Georgia, an Honest Assessment
Driving in Georgia honestly: what the roads are actually like, why the mountain routes need a 4x4 and a season check, the licence and insurance questions, and when a driver beats a hire car.
A local's guide to Georgia from the Tbilisi bathhouses to the towers of Svaneti and every winery in between
This is one real day from a schedule our planner builds. Yours will look different, because it is built around your answers.
Day 2 · Tbilisi
Every hour worked out, every place open
The rest is already waiting, it just needs a few answers
Build me a day like thisSignature motif · climbing by altitude
Georgia's ascent line, stop by stop, from the city to the land of towers.
After a day of peaks comes the supra: a loaded table, the toasts of the tamada and wine from the qvevri. Do not go home without knowing how to eat khinkali properly.
Pick a region and get all its guides.
Every city, mountain, wine region and site from our guides, on one map.
More than 180 of the best places in Georgia, in one guide with photos and tips.
The core guides to start from.
Driving in Georgia honestly: what the roads are actually like, why the mountain routes need a 4x4 and a season check, the licence and insurance questions, and when a driver beats a hire car.
A realistic one week Georgia itinerary covering Tbilisi, Mtskheta, Kazbegi, Kakheti wine country and the drive west, with honest driving times and flexible nights.
Georgia's entry rules explained: why the visa policy is one of the most generous anywhere, what to check for your own passport, the border and land-crossing questions, and the traps that still catch people.
Where to stay in Tbilisi: the Old Town versus Sololaki and Vera, why the hill streets are steeper than they look, and how to pick a base that suits how you actually travel.
When to visit the country of Georgia, season by season: the sweet spots of spring and autumn, mountain hiking windows, the Batumi beach summer, ski season and the harvest, so you time your trip right.
How to visit Kazbegi and the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church: the drive up the Georgian Military Highway, the hike to the church, the best viewpoints, hiking trails and where to stay in Stepantsminda.
Cells cut into rock on a semi desert ridge two hours from Tbilisi, with painted caves above and a contested border along the top. What to know before going.
Most visitors land at Kutaisi and leave within the hour. The city has two of the finest monasteries in Georgia, a cave system nearby, and almost no crowds.
The coast north of the city is quieter, cheaper and where Georgian families actually go, including a stretch of black magnetic sand people travel for.
For a few weeks in autumn the wine country stops being a tasting room and becomes work, and visitors who turn up at the right moment get handed a bucket.
One of the easier countries in the region to travel solo, and the parts that need thought are not the ones people ask about.
Two neighbouring Caucasus countries that get named in the same breath and are considerably less alike than the pairing suggests.
Most visitors can enter Georgia visa free for up to a full year, all you need is a valid passport. Flights are short, which makes Georgia an easy choice even for a quick trip.
Spring (May to June) and autumn (September to October, the grape harvest) are the most pleasant. Summer is hot in the valleys but perfect for the Caucasus, and winter is for skiing in Gudauri and Bakuriani.
Georgia is one of the cheapest destinations in the region. The currency is the lari (GEL), and ATMs are available in every town. Cards work in Tbilisi and Batumi, but villages, markets and drivers prefer cash. A meal at a local restaurant runs about 8 to 15 USD.
The Georgian table, the supra, is rich in breads, cheeses, dumplings (khinkali), khachapuri and ancient qvevri wine. Vegetarian dishes are easy to find, and the food alone is one of the best reasons to come. Our food guide has the details.
Not compulsory. A rental car or a private driver is very handy for the Caucasus and the wine regions, but between the cities there are cheap marshrutkas (minibuses) and transfers. Mountain driving is demanding, so many travellers prefer a local driver.
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